National Park Crochet Patterns

[no1novice]

The national park has produces a couple of crochet patterns.

Walleye Crochet Pattern
www.nps.gov/articles/000/walleye-crochet-pattern.htm
Voyageurs National Park
A crocheted fishing being held by a hand in front of a lake.

Crochet your own walleye!

Located in the lake-country of northern Minnesota, Voyageurs National Park protects 218,054 acres. This includes roughly 84,000 acres of water that provides opportunities to aspiring and experienced anglers alike. A total of 54 fish species have been found in the park's aquatic habitats, but Walleye remains a favorite.

Pattern by Ranger Hailey Burley

Difficulty: Easy – Medium

Size: Keep the size a mystery! Pick out yarn for your walleye and use the recommended hook size. Once your walleye is finished be sure to check the Minnesota DNR fishing regulations to see if your fish falls within the slot limit!

Material:
1. Crochet hook (use recommended size for your chosen yarn)
2. Yarn (Example walleye used a multi-colored yarn to create the pattern you see)
3. Fiber fill
4. Sewing needle

Abbreviations:
ch – chain
R – round or row
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
Number x sc – the number tells you how many times you make a single crochet in each stitch
inc - make two single crochet in one stitch
dec - crochet two stitches together with a sc
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
2dc – crochet two double crochet in one stitch
tr – treble crochet
2tr – crochet two treble crochet in one stitch

Note: This pattern is worked in the round. All fins are crocheted directly to the fish. A stitch marker can be used to mark the begining of the rounds or you can take a strand of yarn (running stitch marker) in contrasting color.
Head and body

Start with magic ring

R01 6 x sc (6)

R02 inc x 6 (12)

R03 (2 x sc, inc) x4 (16)

R04 (3 x sc, inc) x 4 (20)

R05 sc in each stitch (20)

R06 sc in each stitch (20)

R07 sc in each stitch. If you would like to use safety eyes place a stitch marker in this row. Insert the eyes when stuffing the fish on row 34. (20)

R08 (4 x sc, inc) x 4 (24)

R09 sc in each stitch (24)

R10 sc in each stitch (24)

R11 (5 sc, inc) x 4 (28)

R12 sc in each stitch (28)

R13 sc in each stitch (28)

R14 (6 x sc, inc) x 4 (32)

R15-26 sc in each stitch (32)

R27 (dec, 14 x sc) x 2 (30)

R28 sc in every stitch

R29 (dec, 13 x sc) x 2 (28)

R30 sc in every stitch

R31 (dec, 12 x sc) x 2 (26)

R32 sc in every stitch (26)

R33 (dec, 11 x sc) x 2 (24)

R34 sc in every stitch (24) Stuff fish

R35 (dec, 10 x sc) x 2 (22)

R36 sc in every stitch (22)

R37 (dec, 9 x sc) x 2 (20)

R38 sc in every stitch (20)

R39 (dec, 8 x sc) x 2 (18)

R40 sc in every stitch (18)

R41 (dec, 7 x sc) x 2 (16)

R42 (dec, 6 x sc) x 2 (14)

R43 (dec, 5 x sc) x 2 (12)

R44 sc in every stitch (12)

R45 (sc, inc) x 6 (18) Stuff again

R46 Flatten the piece a little bit and crochet the two sides together with 9 x sc, turn

R47 3 x ch, starting in the same stich with 2 tr, then crochet into the next stitches: dc, hdc, sc, sl st, sc, hdc, dc, 2 tr, 3 x ch, sl st in the same stitch in which the trebles were crocheted, cut and secure threads.




Crocheted fish laying on a wooden board. Fish fins are labeled. Top front fin 'anterior dorsal fin' top back fin 'posterior dorsal fin' side fin 'pectoral fin' front bottom fin 'pelvic fin' back bottom fin 'anal fin'.
Fins
Placement of the fins can vary. Use the descriptions below or an image of a walleye to help place your fins.


Anterior Dorsal Fin A little bit after the hump of the fish.

R01 sl st, sc, hdc, dc, 5 x 2tr, dc, skip on stitch, sl st, cut thread and secure


Posterior Dorsal Fin Start 3 stitches behind anterior dorsal fin.

R01 sl st, 2 x 2tr, dc, dc, hdc, hdc, sl st. Cut and secure thread.


Pectoral Fin placed in the middle of the fish below where the hump of the fish begins.

R01 sl st, 2tr x 2, pull thread through and secure. Repeat on other side of fish.

Anal Fin Directly below posterior dorsal fin.

R01 sl st, 2 tr, dc, hdc, sl st.

Pelvic fin Directly below anterior dorsal fin.

R01 sl st, 2 tr, hdc, pull thread through and secure
If your crochet walleye is smaller than you expected, try blaming the spiny water flea!

Spiny water flea is a tiny invasive zooplankton that has invaded the waters of Voyageurs National Park. These tiny predators eat the food that small fish need to eat and grow and are inedible to most of our young fish because of their barbed tail spine. Research has shown that in lakes with spiny water fleas, walleye are smaller, slower growing, and less abundant.

Maybe the spiny water flea can’t be blamed for mishaps in our latest crochet project, but it’s important to clean your gear before and after your next fishing trip. They can be hard to spot because they’re about the size of a grain of rice and nearly translucent. They easily spread on recreational fishing gear and in tiny amounts of water left in bait buckets, live wells, and bilge areas.

____________________________________________________________________________________

Perch-ance you find a mistake in the pattern, please let us know. This is our first oh-fish-al pattern, so please be kind!

[no1novice]

Lava Flow Crochet Pillow

El Malpais National Monument



A park ranger lays down on her back on black rock with arms folded over her stomach. Her head rests on a gray-scale crocheted cylinder pillow, and gray flat hat covers her face. Dry, yellow grass covers the ground.

It's tricky to find a good napping spot when there's 114,000 acres of lava at El Malpais. And even when you find one, the sleeping area is...well...rock solid. Lava isn't known to be very comfortable. That is unless you crochet a lava pillow for yourself!

Bumpy edges mimic the rough and blocky texture of ‘a‘ā lava (pronounced AH-ah), which forms on the edges of lava flows where hot rock cooled quickly while it moved forward. The middle, ridged section of the pillow mimics pāhoehoe (pronounced puh-HOY-hoy), which is more common in the middle of lava flows were hot rock flowed slower and folded against itself.

When both features are crocheted, they make a home-sized lava flow and a punny version of a different lava feature: pillow basalt! Make your own lava pillow to add some geology to your home decor!

Materials

Hook: Any size you like! Lava flows come in all shapes and sizes. A 5 mm/US H hook was used for the pictured project.
Yarn used: Any acrylic/mixed fiber blend, with 12 sc and 15 rows gauge. Pictured project is Red Heart Super Saver Ombre, Anthracite, 10 oz.
Filling: fiber fill, (clean) old socks and other fabric, a pre-existing pillow
This pattern is written using United States stitches and abbreviations. US to UK/AU stitch coversions are listed at the bottom of "Stitches and Abbreviations."

Stitches and Abbreviations:

Yo: yarn over
Ch: chain st
Sl st: slip stitch
Dc: double crochet
Fpdc: front post double crochet (see special stitches)
PC: popcorn stitch (see special stitches)
dc2tog: decrease double crochet (see special stitches)
St/sts: stitch/stitches
Lp/Lps: loop/loops

US to UK/AUS stitch conversions: ch=ch; sl st=ss/sl st; dc=tr; fpdc=rtrf; yo=yoh, dc2tog=tr2tog

The final product may appear difficult, but with a bit of patience you'll "find your flow" in no time!

NPS Photo
Special stitches:

Popcorn (PC): Yo, insert hook in indicated st , yo, pull up a loop (yo, pull through 2 lps) twice (first dc made), (yo, insert hook into same st, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice) 3 times (3 more dc made), remove hook, insert hook through first dc made from front to back then through the loop once again, and pull the loop through the first double crochet stitch.
Fpdc: Yo, insert hook from front to back between the posts of the first and second dc of previous round, then from back to front between the posts of second and third sts. Yo and pull yarn through, one lp on hook. Yo, pull through two lps. Yo, pull through last two lps.
Dc2tog: Yo, insert hook in next st, yo and pull 1 lp through (yo, pull through two lps). Repeat in next st, 3 lps on hook. Yo, pull yarn through 3 lps on hook. Yo, pull through last 2 lps on hook.

Note: Ch 3 at first of every round counts as first dc.
Crochet Pattern:

Difficulty: Medium to Moderate Skill Level
Round 1: Ch 5, join with sl st. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 15 dc in center of ring. Join with sl st at top of ch 3. (16 st)
Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st. 2 dc in each st around. Join with sl st at top of ch 3. (32 st)
Round 3: Ch 3, dc in same st. *PC in next st, 2 dc in next st. Repeat from * around (45 st)
Round 4: Ch 3, dc in same st. *PC in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st at top of ch 3 (60 st)
Round 5: Ch 3, dc in same st. *PC, dc, PC , 2 dc in next four st. Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st at top of ch 3. (75 st)
Note: You can repeat this trend to make a wider pillow. Ch 3, dc in same st. *PC, dc, PC, dc... 2 dc, as desired.
Round 6: Ch 3. 1 dc in each st around. Join with sl st at top of ch 3. (75 st)
Round 7: Ch 3. 1 dc in next st. *Fpdc in next 2st. Dc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with sl st at top of ch 3. (75 st)
Round 8: Repeat Round 7 until piece reaches your desired length.
Round 9: Ch 3. *Dc2tog, PC, 1 dc, PC. Repeat from * around. Join with sl st at top of ch 3. (61 st)
Round 10: Ch 3. *Dc2tog, PC, 1 dc. Repeat from * around. Join with sl st at top of ch 3. (45 st)
Round 11: Ch 3. *Dc2tog in next 2 st, PC. Repeat from * around. (30 st)
Fill with material of choice.
Round 12: Ch 3. Dc2tog around. Join with sl st at top of ch 3. (15 st)
Round 13: Ch 3. Dc2tog in next 2 st around. (8 st)
Fasten off, leaving a tail 6” long. Weave tail between last 8 sts and pull to close. Weave in ends.
Have Fun with Lava Variations!

For columnar basalt, make many lava pillows of different lengths and display them in a cluster short-side down.
Create a more spherical shape to mimic actual pillow basalt, which forms when lava erupts and cools quickly under water.
Instead of "Hot Potato" play "Lava Bomb" and toss it back and forth with a friend! When erupting, lava bombs can be up to two hundred pounds (90 kg) and travel hundreds of feet (tens of meters).
Experiment with colors! Try using solid black, a dark red, varigated yarn of either color, or any combination.

www.nps.gov/articles/000/lava-flow-crochet-pillow.htm

[no1novice]

Triops Crochet Pattern

Wupatki National Monument
A yellow and orange yarn crocheted and stuffed model of a freshwater crustacean called a Triops. Text labeling body parts reads caudal furca, thorax and abdomen, telson, compound eyes, naupliar eyes, endites, endopods, exopods, carapace, and gills.


NPS/L.Carter

Triops are a type of freshwater crustacean that live in temporary pools of rainwater throughout the world. Their eggs can survive being dry in the dirt for up to 30 years. In the summer of 2021 a hatching of Triops eggs occurred in the ballcourt of the Wupatki Pueblo after almost 5 inches in 10 days. They grew and lived in the water for about three weeks until the water dried up and they became food for other animals like ravens. Hopefully enough of them laid eggs for the next big rain.

What you need:

Two colors worsted weight yarn (for this example we used yellow and salmon)

Crochet hook size H/8 (5.0mm)

Two brown medium safety eyes (10mm)

one small black safety eye (8mm) *You can also use black or brown yarn and sew the eyes on.

Yarn needle

Stitch marker

fiber fill or cotton stuffing

Scissors

Terms:
sc = single crochet
st = single stitch
sts = stitches
slst = slip stich
ch = chain
[ ] = repeat
Rnd = Round
A yellow yarn crochet model of a Triops body and carapace that looks like wings.


The finished thorax and abdomen and the two finished pieces of the carapace that will be sewn together at the center line.

NPS/L.Carter
Body (thorax and abdomen):
Worked in the round. Start by making a magic ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6 sts)
Rnd 2: (Increase) 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (increase) [2 sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next st] around (18 sts)
Rnd 4: (increase) [2 sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next st] around (27 sts)
Rnds 6-9: sc around (27sts) *place eyes – two compound eyes go between rnds 2 and 3 about three stitches apart, naupliar eye goes in the middle between rnds 3 and 4.
Rnd 10: (decrease) [decrease x 1, 1 sc in next 2 sts] around (20sts)
Rnds 11 -12: sc around (20 sts) *stuff head lightly
Rnd 13: (decrease) [decrease x 1, 1 sc in next 2 sts] around (15 sts)
Rnds 14 – 18: sc around (15sts) – add stuffing
Rnd 19: (decrease) [decrease x 1, 1 sc in next 2 sts] around (11sts)
Rnds 20 – 25: sc around (11 sts) – add stuffing
Rnd 26: (decrease) [decrease 1, sc in next 3 sts] x 2, decrease1 (7sts)
Rnd 27 – 31: sc around (7sts)
Rnd 32: (decrease) [decrease, 1 sc in next st] x 2, slst to tie off, sew end closed.




Carapace:
Row 1: ch 6, then starting in 2nd st from hook 5 sc, ch 1 and turn (5sts)
Row 2: 3 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sts, ch 1 and turn (7sts)
Row 3: 5 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sts, ch 1 and turn (9sts)
Row 4: 7 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sts, ch 1 and turn (11sts)
Row 5: 5 sc, 2 sc in next st, 3 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sts, ch 1 and turn (14sts)
Row 6: 5 sc, 2 sc in next st, 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, ch 1 and turn (18sts)
Row 7: 18 sc, ch 1 and turn Row 8: 9 sc, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st, slst to tie off (20sts) – leave yarn tail long for sewing.
*Repeat to make two pieces for the carapace.
A yellow yarn crochet model of a Triops carapace which looks like wings.
The finished pieces of the carapace which will be sewn together at the center line.




NPS/L.Carter
Sewing and attaching the carapace to the body:

The end of Row 8 of your carapace pieces will be the side that is closest to the Triops’ eyes.
Using your yarn needle sew the Row 1 stitches to each other in a line. The carapace will now look like wings.
Sew the carapace to the head of the Triops body by wrapping the V shape around the top of the eyes.
Sew the corners of the other side of the carapace to the sides of the skinny part of the abdomen.

A yellow and salmon colored yarn crochet model of the telson and caudal furca of a Triops. It is in the shape of a V.
The finished caudal furca piece sewn onto the telson.

NPS/L.Carter
Caudal Furca:
1. Ch 21, starting in 2nd st from hook, slst back 20 sts, repeat this for second piece making a continuous V shape.
2. Sew the caudal furca onto the telson (end of the abdomen).
Two salmon colored yarn crochet models of the front endites of a Triops. They are two pieces each in the shape of a W with one long, one medium, and one short arm.
The two finished endite pieces which will be sewn onto the head of the Triops.

NPS/L.Carter
Front Endites:
*The endites consist of 3 sequential pieces of one chain row and one row of slip stitches each. You will not tie off or disconnect the yarn between the three steps.
1. Ch 13, starting in 2nd st from hook slst 12 across
2. Ch 8, starting in 2nd st from hook slst 7 across
3. Ch 5, starting in 2nd st from hook slst 4 across
*repeat steps 1-3 to make two pieces
A yellow and salmon colored yarn model of a Triops being held at the bottom by a human hand.

NPS/L.Carter
Sew the endites onto the sides of the head with the shortest pieces just under the end of the carapace that is closest to the eyes.
The underside of a yellow and salmon colored crochet model of a Triops showing the edopods, exopods, and gills which look like many small legs.
The underside of the Triops showing the placement of the endopods, exopods, and gills.

NPS/L.Carter
Endopods, exopods, and gills:
*These consist of sequential pieces of one chain row and one row of slip stitches each. You will not tie off or disconnect the yarn between the steps.
1st: ch 26, starting in 2nd st from hook slst 5 across
2nd – 9th: [ch 6, starting in 2nd st from hook slst 5 across, slst into main ch] x 8
10th – 15th: [ch 5, starting in 2nd st from hook slst 4 across, slst into main ch] x 6
16th – 20th: [ch 4, starting in 2nd st from hook slst 3 across, slst into main ch] x 5 – tie off

*Repeat these steps to make two pieces. Sew both pieces onto the underside of the body in an S shape. Now your Triops is complete!


www.nps.gov/articles/000/triops-crochet-pattern.htm

[no1novice]

Halibut Crochet Pattern

Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve

Hook your own halibut!

NPS/H Burley

Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve protects over 950 square miles of ocean habitat. Over 200 species of fish call Glacier Bay home, including the iconic Pacific halibut.

Pattern by Ranger Hailey Burley

Difficulty: Easy – Medium

Size: Keep the size a mystery! Pick out yarn for your halibut and use the recommended hook size.

Material:
1. Crochet hook (use recommended size for your chosen yarn)
2. Yarn (one light and one dark color)
3. Fiber fill
4. Sewing needle
5. Safety eyes

Abbreviations:
ch – chain
R – round or row
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
Number x sc – the number tells you how many times you make a single crochet in each stitch
dec - crochet two stitches together with a sc
hdc – half double crochet
hdc2tog -- half double crochet two stitches together
dc – double crochet
2dc – crochet two double crochet in one stitch
dc2tog – double crochet two stitches together
tr – treble crochet
2tr – crochet two treble crochet in one stitch
2qtr – crochet two quadruple crochet in one stitch
White yarn that has been crocheted together to form a semi circle.
Row 7.
Body

Create one in each color.

Start with a magic ring.
R1: Ch 1. Work 6 Sc into circle and pull tight. Sl st into ch.
R2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each stitch. Join with a sl st in ch.
R3. Ch 1. dc, (2sc, sc) x 4, dc. Turn. You will now transition from stitching in the round to going back and forth on rows.
R4: Ch 2. hdc2tog (sc,sc, 2sc) x 3, hdc2tog. Turn (14 sts)
R5: Ch 2. hdc2tog, sc in each stitch to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. (12 sts)
R6: Ch 2. (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc) repeat to end of row. Turn. (15 sts)
R7: Ch 1. (sc in next 3 st, 2sc) repeat to end of row. Turn. (18 sts)
R8: Ch 2. dec, (sc in next 3 st, 2sc) repeat to last two st, dec. Turn. (19sts)
R9: Ch 1. sc in each st across. Turn. (19sts)
R10: Ch 1. sc in next 2 st, 1 sc and 1 hdc in following st, 1 hdc in next 2 st, 2hdc, 1 hdc in each of next 2 st, 1 hdc and 1 dc in next st, (1dc in following 2 st, 2 dc) repeat to last 2 st, dc2tog. (23sts)

R11: Ch 2. hdc in next 10 st, sc in each st to last 2 st, dec. (22 sts)
R12: Ch 1, sc in each st. (22 sts)
R13: Ch 3. dc2tog, 1 dc in next 5 st, 2hdc, hdc, sc in the next 3 st, hdc, 2hdc, dc in next 2 st, 2dc, dcx3, dc2tog. (23 sts)
R14: Ch 3. dc2tog, dc2tog, (1 dc in next 2 st, 2dc) repeat to last 4 sts, dc2tog, dc2tog. (25 sts)
R15- R18: Ch 2. dc in each st. (25 sts)
R19: Ch 2. dc2tog, dc in each st until last 2 sts, dc2tog. (23 sts)
R20: Ch 2. dc2tog, dc in each st until last 2 sts, dc2tog. (21 sts)
R21: Ch 2. dc2tog, dc in each st until last 2 sts, dc2tog. (19 sts)
R22: Ch 2. dc2tog, dc in each st until last 2 sts, dc2tog. (17 sts)
R23: Ch 2. dc2tog, dc in each st until last 2 sts, dc2tog. (15 sts)
R24: Ch 2. dc2tog, dc in each st until last 2 sts, dc2tog. (13 sts)
R25: Ch 2. dc2tog, dc in each st until last 2 sts, dc2tog. (11 sts)
R26: Ch 2. dc2tog, dc in each sts to end. (10 sts)
R27: Ch 2. dc in each st to last 2 st, dc2tog. (9 sts)
R28: Ch 1. sc in each st. ( 9sts)

R29: Ch 2. 1 dc in next 2 st, 1 hdc in each st to last 2 sts, 1 dc in last 2 sts. (9 sts)
R30: Ch 2. 1 dc in next 2 st, 1 hdc in each st to last 2 sts, 1 dc in last 2 sts. (9 sts)
R31: Ch 1. sc in each sts (9 sts)
R32: Ch 2. 2dc, dc in each st til last st, 2dc. (11 sts)
R33: Ch 2. 2dc, dc in each st til last st, 2dc. (13 sts)
R34: Ch 2. 2dc, dc in each st til last st, 2dc. (15 sts)
R35: Ch 2. 2dc, dc in each st til last st, 2dc. (17sts)
R36: Ch 3, 2tr, dc, dc, hdc, hdc, sc til las 5 sts, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, 2 tr, ch 3, sl st in the same st in which th etrebles were crocheted, cut and secure thread.

Dorsal fin (top fin)

Begin by attaching yarn towards the base of the tail. (Use image below as a reference) You will be crocheting the top fin from tail towards the head. Crochet stitches as evenly as possible across the body.

sc in next 11 st, hdc in next 5 st, dc in next 5 st, tr in next 2 st, 2qtr, tr in next 2 st, dc in next 3 st, hdc in next 2 st, sc in next 8 st, fasten off.
Anal fin (bottom fin)

Attach yarn directly across from the start of the top fin, so you will again be crocheting from the tail towards the head.

sc in next 11 st. hdc in next 5 st, dc in next 5 st, tr in next 2 st, 2qtr, tr, dc, hdc, sc, sl st in next 4 st, ch 2, 2qtr, fasten off.
Repeat all previous steps for the second color.

Pacific halibut: An Eye-conic Species

When halibut are about an inch long, an amazing transformation begins: the left eye moves progressively over the head to join the right eye, so that both eyes are on the same side. Virtually all halibut are right-eyed, meaning that their eyes are on the dark upper side of their body. Rarely (about 1 in 20,000) halibut are left-eyed, meaning their eyes and dark pigment are on the left side of their body.

Two halves of a halibut fish that has been crocheted with yarn is held together by small pins.
Assembly

Step 1: Add safety eyes to the darker side of the halibut. Keep eyes close together.

Step 2: Pin both sides of the halibut together as you see fit. This will help everything stay in place as you sew the halibut together
Close up of the tail on a crocheted halibut fish.
Step 3: Cut a long piece of yarn in either color (I stitched my halibut together using the brown yarn). Secure thread at the base of the tail on the top of the halibut (near where the thumb is in the image below) and begin sewing the two sides together using a matress stitch.

Stitch together until you reach the other side of the tail and then begin to stuff the tail slightly.
Close up view of crocheted halibut tail with needle sewing across the base of the tail.
Step 4: Once the tail has been stuffed slightly, sew across to the other side to ensure more stuffing won't go into the tail. Take care to hide the yarn color on the opposite side. This will help with the overall body shape of the halibut.
Close up of crocheted halibut fin with a finger pointing to the end of the fin near the eyes.
Step 5: Continue using the matress stitch along the top of the dorsal (top) fin from the base near the tail to the end of the fin near the eyes (pictured). Once you have the top of the fins stitched together, begin stitching the base of the fins together. This will ensure the fin has no stuffing and stays flat.
Zoomed in view of bottom fin on crocheted halibut.
Step 6: Attach thread near the base of the bottom fin and repeat the process of step 5 while stitching around the pelvic fin as well. You might find it helpful to slightly stuff the halibut as you stitch. Just leave enough space so that no stuffing will get into the bottom fin.

Step 7: Finish stuffing the fish. Pacific Halibut are a species of flatfish, so don't overfill! Finish stitching the head together and fasten off.


www.nps.gov/articles/000/halibut-crochet-pattern.htm?utm_source=article&utm_medium=website&utm_campaign=experience_more&utm_content=small

[tulip]

How fun! I can't see all the pictures so I'll need to go to the source. I'd show daughter tulip who is the crochet-er of the fam, but she hates fish so I don't think I'll be getting a cute little walleye anytime soon.

[no1novice]

There were so many to post & it takes me an age as I am always on my phone so I didn't post them all - I've linked to each individual one though!
I'd love to see how they look when they are done!
I can't crochet so have no clue.

[kittylady]

Thanks for sharing no1novice! Seconding wanting to see how anybody's crochet fish turn out because I can't even crochet a string without it turning into a knot!

[sassiness]

I love this so much.